Collected fashion design work of Alex Yu, with a AAS degree at Seattle Central College in Apparel Design and Development with emphasis on Technical Design & Manufacturing and BA in Interdisciplinary Visual Arts from the University of Washington Seattle. Experience in: Apparel design patternmaking and grading(physical and Optitex), technical sketches and tech pack assembly, garment and textile construction(loom-weaving, natural dyeing, wet felting, sample sewing, draping, alternations and hand knitting), apparel machinery:(industrial sewing machine, button holer, serger, coverstitcher, and blind stitcher).
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Artworks include the following formats: Installation, Illustration, Digital, Photography, Cyanotype, Screen-printing, Monotype, Natural Dyeing, Weaving, Felting, Sewing, Knitting, and Wire Sculpture.
In terms of inspiration, I’m often drawn to semiotics among cultural moments and references, often preferring to combine various different references together until they make sense as combined idea. I work best and most efficiently by extensive research, CADs, patternmaking, and drawing.
For this RTW line I wanted to design something based around my ideas on concepts of my art residency project at the carrie art gallery. In continuation of ideas regarding the start of a new relationship and the ways we protect our purity and love, my collection primo tactus represents a modernization of concepts of romantic comfort and sleepwear. From oversized corsets and gilets to sweat pants inspired dress and skirt concepts, the collection both represents antique themes of love such as collected branches or corsets and blends them with the surreal presence of modern comfort attire, such as t shirts and oversized boyfriend wear. Comfortable items are easy to wear yet also revealing and seductive, ill fitting yet a little strange for the wearer. In respect to new love, we take on items and ideas of our partners and adapt them for ourselves. Maybe these are defensive tactics in retaining the relationship, but more likely they are ways we cope with our new founded love by hopefully becoming what we wear.
From left to right:
Look 1: an oversized ponte corset, patterned for the bust to sag slightly, an organza and satin asym wrap skirt that is inspired by lingerie, and a pair of sheer wool gauze pants inspired by lingerie and sheer linen lounge pants.
Look 2: an oversized ponte corset dress with a long 2x2 knit skirt that is inspired by sweatshirts and lounge wear. These are paired with a pair of sheer wool gauze pants.
Look 3: a 2 ply ponte gilet inspired by a victorian men’s gilet, paired with a low rise utility pocket midi skirt in ponte that is inspired by sweat pants and lounge wear. These are paired with a pair of sheet wool gauze pants.
Look 4: a printed french terry tank with wood branch shoulder seam trims, inspired by Victorian poetry and collected objects of romance. An organza and satin asym wrap skirt and a pair of sheer wool gauze pants.
Look 5: an oversized printed ponte asym t shirt with wood branch shoulder seam trims, inspired by boyfriend fit clothing. Paired with a ponte midi skirt with ribbing and wool gauze pants.
Look 6: 2 ply ponte gilet with a ponte skirt that has loungewear ribbing details and fabric flaps.
Look 7: ponte printed t shirt with wood trim, with utility flare skirt in ponte, inspired by modern utility loungewear that has overwashed and warped ribbing, with 50’s flare skirt details
Look 8: ponte printed tank dress with flare skirt and wood trim detail. A pair of sheer wool gauze pant.
Look 9: taffeta, wrap top, inspired by firemen safety blankets and the romanization of firemen. A pair of sheer wool gauze pant.
Look 10: an oversized menswear tweed overcoat with bust detail and ribbing, inspired by boyfriend fit clothes. Paired with a printed jersey tank and a pair of sheer wool gauze pant.
Look 11: an oversized menswear blazer in tweed with oversized slant welt pocket detail. Paired with a printed french terry tank, organza and satin sheer wrap skirt and a pair of sheer wool gauze pant.
Look 12: a printed stretch french terry dress inspired by blankets on the body as at a lover’s house, paired with a pair of sheer wool gauze pant.
Initial Ideas of the collection by vintage collage. Fabric ideas developed into other alternatives.
floats for designing and styling clothing within expression of fit
Garments, Patterns, Tech Packs, and Video developed and constructed in 12 weeks by me. Garment shoot carried more of a standard process documentation feel to leave room for a more creative video development.
The garment as an object of design, not just a worn garment.
Photo by me
Prior to patterning, sewing, and making tech packs for this collection, this was the design book that guided my research and development.
I wanted to go towards a nonchalance to oddities that could still be watered down with traditional styling for the mood of this collection.
I thought about objects that were top heavy and bottom light, the opposite of how people normally dress etc. Kites also had the added transparency detail.
I’m specifically looking at vintage wool references since I’m developing at a similar fabric weight etc.
When looking at transparency, I also liked getting an idea of how something stiff like organza can move within the air etc.
after initial fabric testing, there needed to added ease between the organza and backing layers before moving onto the final garment as the organza layer was stiff and pulling inwards.
looks are developed by larger volume number from reference library. I wanted something not too cutesy or gendered, as well as keeping in my fabric weight etc. Ideas are broad to start with and eventually refined downwards based on compatibility to concept.
final looks with all proposed finishings etc at the time, finishings are dependent on my price range and customer.
Final illustration board render with CADs by me
Sample based on pattern by me
fit sheet example with fit images
Ski Jacket project, designed by me, patterned in optitex, graded in optitex, sewed by me, with full tech pack.
Optitex Pattern by me
Grading points of garments
nested view of graded patterns from S-XXL
Specific grading points in excel sheet
Tech pack by me with 1/8 scale flat sketch
Excerpt of 2nd quarter patternmaking and construction. 3rd garment is a knock off martin margiela, prominent abdomen alternation fit knock off. 4th garment is drafted during this recent spring break.
The concept behind this unisex set is based on children’s uniforms the plasticity of gender in clothing in one’s youth. There is melding of themes in its utility and forced norms, such as gender and uniform emblems that are blended in idea and physical construction. As with children’s wear, the subject is often forced into a set uniform or at a children’s own discretion, attempts to over style themselves and play “dress up”. While the latter is often done without understanding of norms, the wearer of this garment may as well understand and challenge those norms by mixing them all together. In this set, childhood elements of cowboy/motorcycle vests and jeans are remixed into an adult format.
Shell B: Light Wash Denim Cotton Twill
The main vest is made in Shell B, which features cowboy and motorcycle design lines and pockets, finished with DNTS throughout and a zipper closure. Enlarged button details reaffirm the narrative of a child-like combination of mentioned themes for an adult consumer.
Jeans is fit with a curved waistband and made in Shell B. Low rise and fit with a tapered relaxed fit, hemmed at the ankles. 5 pockets, featuring two enlarged cowboy pockets under a curved yoke. Design lines inspired by cowboy gun holsters, the pants reflect a carefree yet simplistic childlike narrative.
Shell A: Beige Med-Weight Cotton Twill
Shell C: Beige Acrylic 5 Gauge 2x2 Rib Knit
The separate sleeveless jacket dress is made from Shell A. It balances childhood school uniform shirt design themes with those of a jacket. The jacket is finished with Shell C, which features gradient tension to mimic a school skirt shape in knit. The closure for this garment is a two way jacket zipper that allows for additional styling options.
Shell D: Mustard Corduroy
The main vest is made in Shell B and D, which features enlarged and curved childlike design lines and pockets on a utility vest, finished with DNTS throughout and a zipper closure. Enlarged button details reaffirm the narrative of a child-like combination of mentioned themes for an adult consumer.
The skirt is fit with a curved waistband and made in Shell B and D. Low rise and fit with a straight fit, hemmed at the ankles. 2 pockets, featuring two low hanging front pockets. The bottom of the skirt is paneled, with straddle stitches throughout, slit at the bottom of CF. Design lines inspired by cowboy gun holsters, the jeans reflect a carefree yet simplistic childlike narrative, that is free from heavy gender norms and is quite conservative. The look can be worn with pants underneath the skirt to further support the design narrative.
Shell E: Khaki Cotton Twill
Shell F: Yellow Calf Leather
Shell C: Beige Acrylic 5 Gauge 2x2 Rib Knit
The first section of the jacket dress features Shell E w/ padding, which looks to combine jacket and dress shirt construction details. The shirt plackets are finished with Shell F, with the cuffs finished with facing and lining from inside the jacket. The neck hole also features facing and is lined.
The latter half of the jacket dress features a Shell F panel design with a large utility pocket and buttons, and gold mirrored flower embroidery patches throughout. These reference the playful yet utilitarian and traditional attitudes of children’s uniforms. The jacket is finished with Shell C, which features gradient tension to mimic a school skirt shape in knit. The closure for this garment is a two way jacket zipper that allows for additional styling options. Additional construction details featured for this garment could include two piece sleeves and a back yoke with darts below.
Trousers for this set were inspired by children’s high waisted uniform shorts and zip detachable pants. As such, the bottoms feature both, closed with buttons at center front, the “shorts” half also features more rounded design lines and is constructed in Shell E. Belt loop details and a second hem are attached in Shell F. These slightly boxy, regular fit “shorts” are detachable by zipper to the slim fit bottom legs, which are constructed in Shell F and feature the same gold mirrored flower embroidery patch on one leg, at the wearer’s choice. The hem is set right above the ankles.
Vary of inspiration for colors and shape. I wanted to maintain a strange but modern look that focuses on a consumer and can be worn with already existing wardrobe.
Prada FW19 Flat Drawings via Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator
Shirt Collar Sample Tech Pack assembled from scratch, one of many, made in combination with a physical shirt sample to replicate the requirements for a real life manufacturer.
A proposed collection practicing the personal art and design narratives in fashion design:
My proposed design line is entitled “valorie”. It was originally inspired by the etymology of the word valor, meaning courage and its latin roots in va-lore, meaning worth, and later the female given name of valorie. I was fascinated by ancient displays of valor by men shown through the use of decoration in armor, how they were celebrated for their courage in contrast with modern women’s dress. Whether the modern woman has the courage to dress feminine or masculine, conservative or risque, she’s ultimately judged for her worth by a society that’s often over focused on females’ outward appearances. Her courage and valor in dressing may seem frowned upon. Maybe my clothing, consisting of both revealing and conservative pieces, masculine and feminine, a balance of these concepts, will cater to a woman that can tease her viewers’ learned points of view. She can dress innocent or aggressive but live by similar rules of femininity. Or she can just be a fashion lover who would appreciate mixing and matching odd but wearable pieces together.
The shell fabrics in my collection are from right to left, a deep red paint stained gradient corduroy, an understated white sequin fabric(something barely noticeable as a sequin from a distance), and a red wool. I was interested in the sturdiness but stainable of wool and cord, but a faint showiness from a white sequin. These I hoped would balance each other out along with their deeply different colors, almost a deep vibrate bright and dark red with a white sequin.
Look 1 from right to left: is a repeated and tiered asymmetrical cord dress, inspired by medieval thigh guards but taken up to the shoulders, paired with a long sequin skirt. The outfit is completed with a medieval inspired red cord circlet sustained with interfacing and wire.
Look 2: is an asymmetric form fitting wedding gown top in white sequin and tassels, fitted with a pair of baggy work wear pants in painted red cord with medieval runic symbols. Again finished with the same circlet.
Look 3: is an armor inspired wrap-around wool top layered quite boxy, almost like going to war, into an asymmetrical red cord skirt on top of the same work pants. The same circlet is worn.
Excerpt of collected images for design and mood research into a collection concept in 2018. Design narrative formed from mixing key themes and values gathered from multiple references. The narrative of modern cyberpunk is explored within this collection.